When someone refers to bead knitting or a bead knitted item they are referring to one of two methods by which you can knit with beads. The two methods are historically and technically known as Beaded Knitting and Bead Knitting. While the names are almost identical, the methodology and procedures used to create the beaded item are considerably different.
Both forms of knitting with beads were popular throughout the 18th and the first part of the 19th century. The work had universal appeal. Items such as bags, scarves, dresses, mittens and lace were all decorated using both methods.
We have had numerous inquiries asking about the difference and similarities between the two methods. What we offer here is a brief description of each method, relative advantages and disadvantages of each method and who should attempt each method.
Before we start, it is useful to understand the two terms in historical context and also how we will apply the terms here. There are two methods to create a bead knitted item:
Beaded Knitting: In this method the beads are knitted in on certain rows at regular or irregular intervals. The beads are between the stitches, and not on the stitches, as in Bead Knitting. In this method the knitting medium (in our case the #8 perle cotton) shows as part of the finished product. This method produces an item which has a fluid, almost sensual feel to it. This is the simpler method of the two and is the method used by Theresa Williams in the Beaded Bag Series.
Bead Knitting: This method differs considerably from the Beaded Knitting method both in appearance and preparation. The beads are actually on the stitches, and not between them, as in Beaded Knitting. The end result is akin to a piece or sheet of beaded fabric since the beads are much closer together and the knitting medium does not show as part of the finished work. The "feel" of an accessory created using this method is considerably "stiffer" than the other method. This result is not surprising since the beads are much closer together and the knitting medium is all behind the beads.
COMPARISON OF THE TWO METHODS
While both knitting methods enable the knitter or beader the ability to create extraordinary beaded items, the Beaded Knitting method is faster, easier, has a silky feel and is much less complicated. On the other hand, the Bead Knitting method allows you to create beautiful patterns or pictorials within the beads themselves making for a completely different look and feel than the easier method.
It really comes down to the time the crafter wishes to invest in a project, what the desired end result should look and feel like, and how complicated they wish their crafts to be.
Relative Advantages and Disadvantages of each Method
Beaded Knitting Method:
As noted above, the beads are between the stitches, and not on the stitches, as in Bead Knitting. The bead(s) swing between two stitches and the hole through the head of the bead lies parallel with the needles. This allows the knitted fabric that results from this method to possess a silky, smooth and almost sensual feel. Similar to the feel of a Medieval Knight's chain mail, only softer. The beads show through on both sides of the knitted fabric.
In this method only one color of bead is usually used. You could of course attempt to mix colors but then you are negating the methods' strongest suit - simplicity. This method does not lend itself to creating patterns or pictorials within the bead knitting. Given this constraint, we have chosen to adorn the bags with ribbon and ribbon embroidery.
Since only one color is usually used, you can use hanked beads which you attach onto the knitting medium (thread) and slide the beads onto the thread. No individual bead stringing is necessary unless you have a special box of loose beads that you want to make something out of.
There is no need to chart your work for the type of items that we present in our books. However, if you wish to attempt placing beads and/or a pattern of beads as accents within a larger project, the whole design should be planned and charted in order to obtain a good balance and repeat.
The knitting process usually consists of only a basic knit stitch, an increasing and decreasing stitch.
If a mistake is made by inadvertently omitting a bead or adding an extra bead, the design can continue to be finished without disjointing the entire project (you may know that the mistake is there, but no one else would ever notice the mistake).
The knitting medium (in our case the #8 perle cotton) becomes an integral part of the look of the finished product since the knitting medium will show. Whether this factor is an advantage or disadvantage depends upon your own personal tastes and point of view.
When knitted, the beads show on both sides.
A small bag, such as our basic shell Pendant bag design, can be knitted in 4 to 6 hours (not including embellishments such as ribbon work, charms, or necklace cord)
Bead Knitting Method:
As noted above, the beads are actually on the stitches, and not between them, as in Beaded Knitting. The key advantage of this method is that you can create a pattern or pictorial within the beads which has an effect that you can not get with any other method, as far as we know. If a pattern or pictorial is to be woven into the beads, several colors of beads will be required. The resulting knitted fabric will be solid beads on one side and knitted fabric on the opposite side. (Only beads show on one side and only the knitting medium shows
on the opposite side.)
The entire project must be charted bead by bead, row by row.
All of the beads need to be strung onto the knitting medium individually and in reverse order.
If a mistake is made by inadvertently omitting a bead or adding an extra bead, the entire design will be disjointed necessitating ripping out your work back to the point of the errant bead.
A small bag, about the same size as our basic shell Pendant bag design, with a pattern or pictorial design in the beads could take several days to several weeks depending upon the skill and patience of the crafter.
Conclusion
The key advantages to the Beaded Knitting method are simplicity, speed, and feel. The key disadvantage of this method is that you can not create a pattern or pictorial with the beads.
The key advantage of the Bead Knitting method is that you can create a pattern or pictorial with the beads. The key disadvantages of this method are that it is much more complicated, tedious, and considerably more time consuming than the Beaded Knitting approach.
Which method should you do? It all depends on what you wish to get out of your knitting or beading experience and how much time and energy you can commit to any one project. If you have the time and the patience to attempt the Bead Knitting approach, you will create an elegant bead knitted item that can be created in no other way than to put in the time and energy to learn the Bead Knitting method. If your time is split between many different craft projects in addition to the other rigors of life you can create elegant bead knitted items like we have presented in our Beaded Bag Series with just a bit of effort and a little bit of time. You decide. If you have the time and energy you ought to do both!
If you made it this far and have read the entire discussion, you are an addict and should be making beaded bags and not reading this stuff!
Happy Knitting!
The BagLady
The technical aspects of this discussion are based upon the classic work by Mary Thomas in Mary Thomas's Knitting Book, Dover Publications, Inc., 1972. Republication of the original 1938 publication by Hodder and Stoughton, Ltd., London.